Admittedly, our initial plans for this trip did not involve the parks at all. Our inspiration started with a ranch trip that I had taken with my family back in the early 2000s, and we wanted to repeat the awesome experience we had. As we were planning, we were so close to the parks that we couldn’t resist and tacked a couple days onto our itinerary. Ideally, we would've loved more time in the parks and at the ranch, but life gets in the way. We ended up with a day and a half at Teton, two full days in Yellowstone, and 4 full days at the ranch.
Yellowstone marked stop two of our great American West trip. Yellowstone is the first national park, and it did not disappoint, serving up some of the most impressive geology and biology in the world. We repeatedly had to pick our jaws up off the trail as we explored and can't wait to go back. Read on to learn more about our experience in the park before continuing on to the Ranch at Rock Creek.
DESTINATION GUIDE:
OUR OTHER ITINERARIES FOR THIS TRIP:
THE RANCH AT ROCK CREEK - COMING SOON
DAY BY DAY GUIDES:
DAY 1:
GEYSER BASINS GALORE - THE SOUTH LOOP
LEAVING TETON:
Today we got off to an early start, and I mean early. The coldest part of the night hits not long before sunrise, and that's about when we found out there had been a sleeping bag snafu. Michael had two similar sleeping bags in two identical dry bags and grabbed the wrong one when packing for the trip. Lesson learned. After stealing my camp blanket and scarves, Michael tried to go back to sleep, but was struggling to get toasty. We're not morning people, but we knew we needed to get up and moving to beat the cold.
We packed up our little tree-lined campsite sad to leave Teton, but excited to move on to Yellowstone at the same time. To get one last little taste, we made some breakfast and then walked down a rough path to the beach of the lake. We only knew it was there because one of the rangers had recommended it to us, and we had the entire place to ourselves. It was the perfect peaceful start to our morning before the busy day ahead of us.
INTRODUCTION TO YELLOWSTONE:
The drive to Yellowstone is beyond simple. There's only one way north out of Teton, and it will take you directly to the South Entrance of Yellowstone, all in about an hour. As soon as we passed into Yellowstone, we found ourselves like kids in a candy shop, distracted and wanting to stop and enjoy everything in our path. It wasn't long before we hit Lewis Falls. It's certainly not the most impressive waterfall in the park, but it's still beautiful and made for a great introduction.
We managed to keep ourselves on the road until we made it to the West Thumb Basin. Again, this might not be the most exciting basin in the park, but it was a great introduction. There's a good variety of features here, and the basin is really neat because it's right on the edge of Yellowstone Lake. Some of the features are actually in the lake. The famous fishing cone actually was once used to catch the fish that were caught here. Though this would continue to be a theme, I was awestruck at the vibrant oranges and reds flowing across the ground into the lake and the perfectly turquoise waters of seemingly bottomless springs. We definitely had to pick our jaws up as we left, but we were just getting started. Next stop: Old Faithful.
OLD FAITHFUL:
You start to get an idea of just how big a draw Old Faithful is when you try to find it. It's not that it's hard to find because you'll miss it, but because there is so much infrastructure that it's hard to tell which direction is the actual geyser. There are literally highway style exits, parking lots, overflow parking lots, visitors centers, lodges, gift shops, restaurants - most just labeled Old Faithful. We had no idea which way we actually wanted to go. We ended up getting parking pretty close, but with all the overflow infrastructure I imagine that isn't usually the case. This is where battle lines get drawn about the parks. It's great that there is infrastructure here to make it accessible to the public, but it also feels like a theme park more than the great outdoors.
The good news was, once we got to the geyser, the basin was set somewhat away from most of the madness. That is except for the ring of benches around the geyser, which are swarmed with crowds waiting for the eruption. We did the touristy thing and sat here for the first explosion. The park app and different buildings post the eruption times, so we knew we wouldn’t have time to make it to another vantage point. There are better options for viewing, but our timing was perfect.
I've seen some snarky online reviews of Old Faithful that some people are not impressed with the geyser. Maybe it's just me, but I don’t see how that's possible. If thousands of gallons of steaming water spewing a hundred feet in the air isn't enough for you, stop and think about how and why it happens. I remember Michael had to physically push my camera lens down because I was awestruck with my finger hammering down on the trigger.
Once we watched the eruption, we explored the rest of the basin. For how popular Old Faithful is, I was surprised how few people walked around the boardwalks. There's a lot to see here! There are some beautiful springs and bubbling features and streams of orange runoff that cut through the crust like lava flows. We walked down to the river where there's a nice little bridge where you can watching the steaming water spill into the chilly river. Walking around we also bumped into a few park rangers who were either chatting with visitors or working on research and testing.
We had walked around long enough that it was time for Old Faithful to erupt again. The basin is plenty flat enough to see from the far less crowded boardwalks. We noticed one of the walkways was slightly raised in a spot downhill of Old Faithful. It was enough to pique my interest and plant ourselves as we waited for the next eruption. Second time was a charm. We had an amazing view of the geyser with the Inn in the background and just two or three people next to us. Plus we got to find out why that boardwalk was lifted. As the geyser went off, the water all flowed towards us. It really showed just how much water really comes out of the ground.
After wrapping up at the basin, we walked over to the Old Faithful Inn. The structure is stunning, especially given that it's made of logs. We were really hoping to go inside and see the multi-story lobby, but that too had fallen victim to COVID. Alas, we'd have a reason (among many others) to return!
GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING:
Our day took us from one Yellowstone icon to another, Grand Prismatic Spring. Before you reach the main lot for the spring, there's a turn-off for the hike to the overlook. Take it. It's not a very long hike and it's a super easy trail with just a little uphill. I remember climbing the hill and sneaking a peek of the spring between some trees and not understanding why no one else was stopping. I caught my first glimpse and was pleasantly surprised that the spring wasn't one of those things that just looked good in pictures. I've been to other places that are beautiful, don’t get me wrong, but are so ubiquitously photoshopped that you have over-inflated expectations. The spring did not disappoint. The colors are unbelievably vibrant and natural.
A little further up the hill, there's a little overlook with the perfect bird's eye view. We had to wait a second for one of the prime spots along the railing, but after we stepped a couple of feet to the side, we had plenty of time and space to ooh and ahh at the view.
Once we got back to the car we debated whether it was worth it to see the spring up close since we had seen it from the overlook. So much so that we actually passed the parking lot just a little ways down the road and then turned around to go back. I won't say I liked the up close view better than the overlook, but I think it was still worth it. Seeing the colors up close and feeling the steam coming off the spring give a different perspective. You could even see spots where animals had tracked across the crust at some point, reminding you how wild Yellowstone is. There are a couple other cool features here. It was a quick little stop, and we were glad to have gotten both perspectives but very eager to get off our feet and settled into our campsite.
MADISON CAMPGROUND:
Grand Prismatic isn't far from the Madison campground, so we were able to get to camp quickly. Reservations and a small onsite shop for firewood and other essentials made the evening a breeze. Madison wasn’t quite as private feeling as Colter Bay, but we still had a nice shaded spot and could easily walk to the Madison river at the edge of camp. Despite all the smoke, we were treated to a surprise blanket of stars as we sat around our campfire enjoying a few beers we had picked up in Teton.
KEY STOPS:
MORNING: Drive in & West Thumb Basin
LUNCH: Old Faithful
AFTERNOON: Grand Prismatic Spring
DINNER: Campfire cooking after setting up at Madison
CLICK HERE to read the full destination guide to Yellowstone
DAY 02:
CANYON, MAMMOTH, & LAMAR - THE NORTH LOOP
Today we were going to tackle the North loop of the park, starting at the Grand Canyon. We didn’t make it very far out of the campground before we stopped at Gibbon Falls. This was another one of those things where we had no idea it was there but saw the pullout and stopped. It’s a beautiful waterfall and the early morning light spilled over the ridge illuminating the valley and river below - well worth the stop!
GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE:
Once you get to the Canyon, you have a choice between the North and South rim. Both have lookouts and trails, but we opted for the more popular South Rim. The Upper Falls are often talked about as being way less impressive than the more famous Lower Falls, but we were pretty blown away at the overlook. The only disappointment was that we had planned to take Uncle Tom's Trail, which is really a set of stairs, down to the base of the falls to get an up close view, but unfortunately it was closed. I don't know how long the closure was planned for, but we'll have to put it on our list for a return trip. The falls both carry massive amounts of water and it would've been really impressive to hear the roar and feel the spray up close.
After gawking at the Upper Falls, we drove to the next parking lot right by Artist Point, arguably the most famous view of the canyon. It's here that you see the canyon's namesake sulfur-tinged yellow stone. Walking out onto the lookout, feels like stepping into a giant postcard. Normally, or even later in the day, I would imagine this stone overlook would get quite crowded, but we had plenty of time to sit and take it all in. We stayed for a good while - until our stomachs started growling enough that we went on the hunt for lunch.
We were a little early, but we were able to eat at the little diner themed restaurant at Canyon Village nearby. Some things, including the visitor center, were closed, but there's a lot here from information to camping supplies if you are in the need for something.
Our next major plan for the day was to head to the Mammoth area, but we made a few stops along the way and we're really glad we did! Our favorite was the little loop drive off to Virginia Cascades. The main sight for most people is to see the waterfall, which you can see from the old, narrow one-way road, but there are options to hike down to the river. We didn’t hike down, but I would think any options would be pretty steep. The falls were great, but we loved what came after. We almost passed up a grassy meadow cut by a glassy meandering stream. We felt a world away from the rest of the bustling park and soaked it in with a nice long walk along the edge of the water. It wasn’t the most "impressive" thing we saw, but was a highlight of our trip nonetheless.
We also enjoyed our stop at Sheepeater Cliff. The highlights here are the strange rock formations that make up the cliff. The black rock forms in square columns and almost looks like it were extruded from a children's Play-Doh toy. It's pretty unique and made a great backdrop for many picnickers in the area. We also enjoyed the Gardner River that gently spills across the riverbed nearby. Neither this stop nor Virginia were the most exhilarating of our trip, but it showed a different side of Yellowstone that was very worth it.
MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS:
After our detours, we were on to our next big ticket stop! This part of the drive was probably the most white-knuckled we had in Yellowstone, but it wasn't too bad. There's a spot where the road cantilevers out, lots of strange rock formations, and views that demonstrate the park's history with fire. Once we made it to Mammoth, our tranquil solitude for our last couple of stops disappeared. There is traffic everywhere.
We fell victim to waiting in line for the drive through the upper terraces of the hot springs. Looking back, I wouldn’t do this again. The line was painful, and we could've easily accessed this part of the park on foot. We also ended up finding someone's lost camera, which meant we needed to figure out where to take it! After a bit of luck and frustration we managed to snag a spot in the crazy busy parking lot.
The park's headquarters are nearby in one of the Old Army Fort buildings, but we knew they were closed. Fortunately they had a ranger set up at a table outside, and we were able to return the camera and chat about some of her favorite day hikes. While we were there, we took a little lap around the fort. The buildings are gorgeous and some still used as homes. There are some signs nearby that help bring the history of this part of the park alive.
The other thing you'll notice in this part of the park - the elk. I was shocked at how close they got to buildings and people! They seemed right at home. We joked about the sod buffet of course as we took some cool pictures. That said, we were also shocked with how close people got to the animals. Even moms pushing kids in strollers seemed to quickly forget that an elk could cause serious damage if frightened or provoked. We got to see plenty of them without trying to get right on top of them.
After our walk, we were really toasty, and the ice cream shop was OPEN. The line was pretty long because of social distancing, but so worth it. They served Wilcoxson's, which I have absolutely no connection to, but want to plug here. So good! Grabbing something cold was perfect before we headed off to the hottest part of our trip - there's no shade at the hot springs and the water reflects the sun.
Just steps from the hotels and headquarters are the hot springs. Boardwalks lace the area, providing access to the travertine terraces. To me the springs have an almost spooky quality from far away, like furniture covered by sheets in an old house. But, up close, the trickling sound of the water and the delicate little mini terraces and ridges are peaceful and soothing. Every terrace is slightly different. Some have more or less of these small details and some have colorful water. We pretty much ended up walking the entirety of the boardwalks because we enjoyed looking at all the differences. It's also pretty neat to spot the differences in the terraces over time - a few have signs of what they once looked like. As the water flows and deposits minerals, it shapes the landscape over time and the flow itself eventually evolves. The terraces are ever-changing, and these photos help bring that to life.
LAMAR VALLEY:
After wrapping up at Mammoth we headed east to Lamar Valley. The drive here also is a bit more dramatic than other parts of the park, but it was beautiful. Eventually you exit the mountains and settle into a large valley. Lamar is famous for its wildlife, and it didn’t take us long to catch a glimpse of a few of the animals. Before we entered the main portion of the valley, we spotted a few pronghorn in the trees. As we moved deeper, we spotted many herds of bison and some impressive male elk.
From start to finish, we saw animals, but the valley is huge. I wish we had more time to figure out the strategy - because I'm sure there is one - but we felt like tourists. For better or worse, there is only one road cutting through the valley, and the valley's notoriety for animal sightings brings cars. At some point you'll see a whole string of cars pulled off to the side. The catch is why they're there - because it's a good spot to stop and wait for animals to come? Because someone saw an animal? Or just because other people stopped and joined the bandwagon? We're not locals, so I don’t have the on the ground knowledge where the animals frequent. I don’t know if it's better to hit a popular spot with people who could scare an animal off or to risk a spot where you're all alone but potentially for a reason. I don’t know if it's better to move around or pick a spot and wait. Like I said, we felt like tourists. We realize we need to go back and recruit some local know-how to perfect our animal spotting strategy, particularly for predators. We saw lots of prey animals, but alas still didn't spot a bear or other large predator.
That said, I do know it's best to be there at certain times of the year and certain times of the day depending which animals you want to see. For example, bears head to higher elevations in the summer and hibernate in the winter, but wolves are prevalent and more easily seen in the snowy winter. Dusk and dawn are good bets because it's cooler and animals are more active. There's a catch here, too. Going at dusk or dawn sounds great, but that means you need to either drive to or from the valley in the dark. The roads aren't petrifying by any means, but we weren't super keen to stay out in the dark, especially if the animals would be more active. They're already all over the roads at the height of the day. It would be really nice to stay in one of the campgrounds near the valley if you wanted to maximize your chances of seeing wildlife without having to worry about the drive.
In the end we acknowledged we were lucky to see anything we saw, and we explored as far as Soda Butte. We stopped and enjoyed some charcuterie and mountain views along the way before starting the journey back to Madison for our last night under the stars. We were terribly sad to leave Yellowstone and Teton behind, but at the same time very excited to shift to the luxury portion of our trip at the Ranch at Rock Creek where we would get a chance to "play cowboy" as Michael says. The excitement for heading to the ranch made leaving ok - that and knowing we would be back, hopefully sooner than later.
KEY STOPS:
MORNING: Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
MIDDAY: Virginia Cascades & Sheepeater Cliff
AFTERNOON: Mammoth Hot Springs & Old Army Fort
LATE AFTERNOON: Lamar Valley
CLICK HERE to read the full destination guide to Yellowstone
TAGS
#nationalparks #Yellowstone #mountains #Rockies #nature #outdoors #active #adventure #hiking #camping #USTrip #wildlife #montana #itinerary
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