THE DESTINATION
OVERVIEW
KNOWN FOR:
NATURAL SCENERY
WILDLIFE
STAR
GAZING
ADVENTURE
CULTURE
The Mara is one of the most celebrated Safari destinations in all of Africa. There's a reason so many wildlife photographers and documentary filmmakers like to spend extended time here in the savannahs of the Mara; the wildlife sightings are world-class. From massive lion prides, to the Great Migration, to the native Maasai people, the Mara is filled with reasons to make a trip to this special place. I expected a few things, like that we'd see animals in their natural habitat and that we'd stay in unique lodgings, but I was blown away by the unexpected. I didn't realize just how close we'd be able to get to the animals; I certainly didn't imagine being just a few feet from lunching lions. I also didn't realize just how many animals we'd see. I thought we'd spend the majority of our time searching, with a few sightings interspersed through our day. Instead, it was flipped, and we were rarely without something exciting to see and interesting tidbits from our guide. On top of all that, I was blown away by the hospitality. Not only did our lodges manage to pull off impossible levels of luxury in truly remote locations, but we were pampered by the most incredible hosts. The staff blew us away with their warmth, attention to detail, and expertise. The food and accommodations were as good, but likely better, than anywhere we’ve stayed in the world, and we got to enjoy it all in relative solitude. From the epic wildlife sightings and journeys across sweeping landscapes to the more understated moments conversing with warm, genuine hosts or simply enjoying the sounds of nature, the Mara is a place that sticks in my mind. If you're ever blessed with a chance to visit, jump on it. Your only concern will be that you, too, will spend your life dreaming of your return to this magical place.
MOST RECENT VISIT: Summer 2022
CLICK BELOW TO READ ABOUT OUR PERSONAL EXPERIENCE:
THE BOTTOM LINE
So what's the big deal? Here's why the Mara is worthy of a trip:
IF YOU WANT TO SEE THRILLING WILDLIFE SIGHTINGS
There's a reason Safari as we know it started here in Kenya. It's truly one of the best destinations for wildlife in the world. Here you can work on spotting the Big 5, see incredible predators up close, and witness some of the most dramatic moments of the Great Migration.
IF YOU WANT TO DISCONNECT FROM THE GRID
There aren't many places left in the world where you can truly disconnect, but this is one of them. Most lodges are only accessible by air and only host a few guests at a time - it's truly remote. While wi-fi has made its way to the bush, there's a pervasive culture to keep devices out of common spaces.
IF YOU CAN'T DECIDE BETWEEN LAID-BACK LUXURY & ADVENTURE
Your schedule on safari is up to you. Generally, you'll head out on game drives at dawn & dusk, but you can spend midday at the lodge how you choose. Head back to the room for a nap, enjoy a long lunch, or take advantage of your camp's pool or library. It all creates a great opportunity for a balanced trip.
IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A TRULY UNFORGETTABLE HONEYMOON
Perhaps it's the solitude you and your significant other have from the rest of the world. Perhaps it's romantic canopies over plush beds and footed soaking tubs in your old-world tent. Perhaps it's cocktails by the fire under a blanket of stars. Whatever it is, it's oozing with romance, and you'll have amazing stories to tell when you return home.
TRAVEL TOOLKIT:
SAFARI PLAYBOOK
TIPS FOR FIRST-TIMERS
Going on Safari is one of the most unique travel experiences out there. That also means it can be one of the most intimidating trips to prepare for because it’s hard to know exactly what to expect. Combine that with being “off-the-grid,” so to speak, and you’ll need to do a little bit more preparation than you might do for other trips. The good news is, it’s completely worth it!
If you’re a first-timer on Safari, this guide seeks to answer some of the questions you may have - and some that you haven’t even thought about! The guide has top tips for how to plan your trip, how to prepare before taking off, and what to expect once you’re on the ground. Click on the guide to learn more!
HOSPITALITY ATLAS
WHERE TO STAY
Your stay in the Mara will be defined by the camps you choose. Not only will your camp serve as an oasis, offering the physical creature comforts you need in the otherwise rugged remoteness of the Mara, but your camp will also provide all of your Safari experiences. From fine dining to expert game drives, these experiences will make or break your trip.
This guide gives an overview of the key regions of the Mara and how the Great Migration (typically) moves through them, plus a selection of camps in each. It then provides more detail for select camps across the Mara as well as a few things to consider when choosing a camp. Depending on what you're looking for (and what you're looking to spend), there's something for everyone. Click on the guide to learn more!
COMING SOON
CRASH COURSES
ESSENTIAL HOW TO GUIDES
ACTIVITY PORTFOLIO
TOP THINGS TO DO
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GAME
DRIVE
The bread and butter of an African safari! Game drives take place at dawn & dusk for the best shot of catching the animals in action. Your expert guide will point out animals and educate you along the way. Take advantage of the cocktails in the onboard cooler or the opportunity for an elaborate bush breakfast.
Photo: Unsplash*
STARGAZING &
PHOTOGRAPHY
I thought I'd seen dark skies before, but East Africa put on light show that was hard to believe. I did a double take because I couldn’t believe I was seeing the Milky Way stretched across the sky with my naked eye. If you want to try your hand at astrophotography or just enjoy gazing up, this is a great spot!
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BALLOON
SAFARI
Try a safari from a completely different perspective! As impressive as the African savanna is up close, it is truly amazing to experience from the air. See how wildlife and rivers cut across the landscape, and appreciate the extreme vastness. Enjoy the tranquility as you glide above it all in the basket of your balloon.
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RELAXATION
AT THE LODGE
Most lodges are equipped with amenities to pamper guests when not out exploring. Cool off after a dusty drive in the pool, curl up with a book in the library, soothe tense muscles at the spa, enjoy cocktails around an evening fire, and more. Just because you're in the bush doesn’t mean you're "roughing it!"
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WALKING
SAFARI
Arguably the purest form of safari, walking provides the chance to slow down and soak up the details of your surroundings. The tracks or plants that you might fly by in a vehicle become a learning opportunity on foot. This opportunity isn't available everywhere you go, so check with your lodge if it's of interest to you.
Photo: Unsplash*
CULTURAL
EXPERIENCES
Get to know the amazing people that call this land home. The tribes of East Africa are numerous and diverse, and cultural traditions run deep. COVID has put a pause on visits. But, the people of the region are arguably the most genuinely kind I have ever met, and I imagine connecting with locals would be an incredible experience.
THE GREAT MIGRATION
A SPECTACLE OF NATURE
WHAT IS IT?
Each year between one to two million wildebeest and several hundred thousand zebra embark on a circular journey through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem in search of food and water. The herds stretch across the horizon and will travel 800-1,000 km, facing great danger along the way. Predators follow the herds, preying on the weak and the young. The Migration must also make several river crossings where animals get caught in the jaws of crocodiles or crushed as the masses leap from the banks. All in all, several hundred thousand animals will perish, truly embodying the circle of life. This spectacle, known as the "Greatest Show on Earth," is on every serious safari-goer's list.
HOW CAN I SEE IT?
It'll take a good dose of luck! The herds have a general pattern to their movement, but it's far from clockwork as it will vary based on weather conditions. Check out my infographic in the Date Selector section to see where you'll typically find the herds (sites like this one, this one, or this one also have excellent maps). Also, keep in mind that it depends on which part of the Migration you wish to see - giant bands of moving animals, the birth of calves, or the iconic river crossings. Also, remember to pack your patience! Even if you happen to be lucky enough to see the herds crowding the banks of the Mara, it may take some time before one brave soul decides to make the leap, and you're likely to be joined by other safari vehicles filled with photographers on bated breath.
WANT TO LEARN MORE?
Check out my required reading section below where you'll find a detailed document with many resources & recommendations.
CLICK TO LEARN MORE
FIELD GUIDE
WILDLIFE TO SEE
There are many, many parks, reserves, and conservancies where you can explore on safari. Each has its own unique ecosystem, and you should consider this and your personal wildlife bucket list when choosing a destination. Some animals are relatively ubiquitous and you’ll find them almost anywhere, but others are much harder to spot and the odds can vary from park to park.
Below you’ll see a breakdown of what to expect in the Mara:
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Plan to see: These are abundant in the Mara and less elusive to safari-goers
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Chance to see: These are either less abundant here or they may just have behavior that makes them harder to spot
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Rare to see: These are species that are either very scarce here or very elusive
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Absent here: These are species that are popular to see in other locations, but not present here
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If an animal is noted with (**), the Mara is a top location compared to other locations to view this species. Note: the animal may still be hard to spot!
For each of the key species, there are more details on characteristics and behavior patterns that might come in handy on a game drive!
PLAN TO SEE
-
Lion**
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Wildebeest**
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Zebra**
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Giraffe**
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Elephant
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Buffalo
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Antelope (many species)
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Warthog
CHANCE TO SEE
-
Cheetah**
-
Leopard
-
Hyena
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Jackal
-
Serval**
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Hippo**
-
Baboon
-
Ostrich
-
Crocodile
RARE TO SEE
-
Serval**
-
Black Rhino
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Aardvark
-
Pangolin
-
Wild Dog (being re-established)
ABSENT HERE
-
White Rhino
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Large primates (gorillas, chimpanzees)
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Meerkat
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Flamingo
QUICK GUIDES
ITINERARY
SAFARI & THE SEYCHELLES | 2.5 WEEKS
OVERVIEW
On this epic honeymoon itinerary, you’ll get up close with big cats, the Great Migration, and more on Safari in the Serengeti and the Mara. Then you’ll head to the Seychelles, one of the most picturesque tropical destinations in the world. I know I’m biased, but if you’re planning a big romantic trip, whether for a honeymoon, a milestone anniversary, or whatever reason, you have to consider this itinerary. Our only regret was that we couldn’t stay longer.
Background Photo: Unsplash*
SEE THE FULL ITINERARY DETAILS HERE:
JOURNEY BUILDER
ITINERARY ADD-ONS
Get away for the day with a day-trip nearby, or if you're not quite ready to cut your trip short, extend your itinerary and hop to another destination. To see how a multi-stop itinerary might come together check out the OTHER ITINERARIES section below.
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THE
SERENGETI
The Serengeti is part of the same ecosystem as the Mara - it just happens to be across the Tanzanian border. Visiting both is common as it allows you to experience different terrain, local wildlife, and lodging that can vary slightly between the two regions. Diversify your safari and boost your chances of the best animal sightings!
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THE
SEYCHELLES
Mix up your time on safari with some time relaxing at what was once thought to be the Garden of Eden. The Seychelles archipelago is famous for pristine beaches dotted with dramatic granite boulders. The islands are also home to two UNESCO sites including the Vallee de Mai, a biodiverse forest home to the coco de mer.
Photo: Unsplash*
NAIROBI
Continue on to Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, where you can explore local sights like Giraffe Manor, a boutique hotel where Giraffes quite literally come to your door. Alternatively, use this as a jumping off point to explore other parks in Kenya like Chyulu Hills, Amboseli, Samburu, the Rift Valley, or the reserves famous for Rhino near Mt. Kenya.
Photo: PTO Travel Pro*
AMBOSELI &
CHYULU HILLS
This region in the shadow of Kilimanjaro is home to epic but less touristed parks, particularly famous for African Elephant "Tuskers" that gather in front of the snow-capped volcano. The Chyulu Hills are a volcanic chain with some of the world's longest lava tubes and a lush landscape selected as the backdrop for Out of Africa.
Photo: Unsplash*
OTHER SAFARI DESTINATIONS
As impressive as the Mara is for safari, there are countless other parks in Africa worth visiting for a different version of safari. South Africa, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Namibia are popular. For a contrasting experience to the Mara, a trip to the Okavango Delta and Victoria Falls would be a great option!
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AMSTERDAM
A popular connecting city, especially when traveling from the US. Take advantage of a stop-over and visit the world-class Rijksmuseum, or see the art of Dutch Masters Van Gogh and Rembrandt. Amsterdam is also famous for those looking to have a good time - visit the Heineken experience, "coffee shops," or the red-light district.
Photo: Unsplash*
LAIKIPIA
RESERVES
Unfortunately, poaching has dwindled rhino populations across Africa, making it a saddeningly difficult hurdle for a Big 5 quest. A few conservancies to the northwest of Mt. Kenya (notably Ol Pejeta, Lewa, and Solio), are combating this decline. These places are not only some of the best places to see rhino but to conserve them.
Photo: Unsplash*
GORILLA
TREKKING
Just across the border into Uganda or Rwanda, you can find an utterly distinct and amazing wildlife experience. Trade the wide-open grasslands of the Mara for the mountainous rainforest. After trekking through the jungle, you'll have the opportunity to spend time with a group of endangered gorillas up close!
Photo: Unsplash*
ISTANBUL
Turkish airlines offers the opportunity to build in a free stop-over when connecting through Istanbul. Explore two continents in one city, straddling Europe and Asia. Visit the famous historic sites including the Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, or the Basilica Cistern. Enjoy local culture at the city's bazaars, bath houses, and street food vendors.
MATCH MAKER
WHO SHOULD GO
SHOULD THE MARA BE AT THE TOP OF YOUR BUCKET LIST?
BEST FOR:
HONEY
MOON
COUPLES
SMALL GROUPS
MULTI-GEN
FAMILIES
FAMILIES W/
KIDS 10+
NOT SMALL KIDS
SPEED
ON-THE-GO
PHYSICALITY
MINIMAL
COST
EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE
Once-in-a-lifetime spending for most
MORE DETAILS
This is a bucket list trip if there ever was one! Everything from the people to the accommodations to the wildlife encounters feels distinct from any other trip I've ever been on - and it's all so truly breathtaking.
With that, I'd generally say this is a trip everyone should try to go on. The only real exception, aside from any physical or financial limits detailed below, is small children. Many lodges have age restrictions, but even if they don't, I personally wouldn't take small children. Part of this is a simple safety risk, part of this is consideration for your own experience and other guests' experience, especially given the cost.
Because going on safari is such a unique experience, it can present unique challenges and questions when planning. Most of this comes down to simple uncertainty, and once there, we found many things to be much more straightforward than we anticipated. To help tackle these questions I put together THE SAFARI PLAYBOOK - first-timer or frequent visitor, check it out to read my tips & tricks!
ACTIVITY LEVEL
You won’t do anything that is really physically taxing, mostly just sitting in the safari vehicle. However, the days can be long, and the vehicles can be a rough ride (sit towards the front if you have a bad back). Game drives start at 5-6 AM and return around lunch. Then you’ll go back out in the evening before heading to dinner. Depending on what you see you might get a nice window in the afternoon to nap, but we also had days where we opted to stay out because we didn’t want to miss anything.
COSTS
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but going on safari is the most expensive trip we have ever taken. High-end lodges charge anywhere from $750 to over $2,000 per person per night. Fortunately, this includes all activities and dining, but you'll also have to factor in the cost of long-haul international flights and bush flights.
At first, we thought this was astronomical, and for most people, it is just impossible. That said, after making the trip, we completely understand the prices. The quality of these camps was better than nearly anywhere else I have stayed in the world, and this is all pulled off in impossibly remote areas where anything and everything has to be flown in by propeller plane. Any of the food we were served could have been plated at a top-end restaurant in London or New York without question. Service is truly impeccable and staff work very long hours, serving dinner and cocktails into the night and waking up early to prepare for game drives.
Beyond the camp experience, you are really paying for the expertise of your guide, and a good one (we experienced nothing but this) is worth every penny. They can spot animals from a few hundred yards that I couldn't spot right in front of me. They know the animals like family and can tell you their typical behavior or family history. They truly bring the safari experience to life, and after all, that's why you came.
There are more affordable ways to go on safari beyond staying in the top-end lodges, of course. That said, do your homework before signing onto a deal that seems too good to be true. For the reasons I listed above, the logistics of running a safari camp create naturally high costs. If the price is low, try to figure out why. Compromising luxury is one thing, but don't settle for camps that compromise respect for the environment that drew you here in the first place. Some camps are more focused on conservation than others, but even something as basic as guest capacity comes into play. Read more about how to choose a safari lodge by clicking here!
DATE SELECTOR
WHEN TO GO
WHEN SHOULD YOU PLAN TO EXPLORE AND FOR HOW LONG?
IDEAL STAY
2 WEEKS
MIN. 3 NIGHTS PER CAMP
IDEAL SEASON
JULY TO SEPTEMBER
PLANNING TIME
18 MONTHS OR MORE
IDEAL STAY
It not only takes a while to get to Kenya, but it also takes a while to move around within the country. Count on “losing” the better part of a day each time you need to travel anywhere, even if it seems close. I’d recommend trying multiple camps and staying at each one for no less than 3 nights, ideally more. And include a buffer day on either end of your travel. In total, I'd plan to spend 2 weeks on safari, and I wouldn't push it to less than 10 days.
IDEAL SEASON
June through September are some of the best months to go on Safari, with July to early September arguably being considered the peak. Not only is the weather ideal at this time of the year, but some of the most exciting action happens for the Great Migration of wildebeest and zebra. This is not a well-kept secret, however, and this season is also the peak for visitors - lodge prices and availability will reflect this.
Situated so close to the equator, temperature only fluctuates slightly from month to month. Season matters more for the rain. It is noticeably drier than the rest of the year from June to September and rain peaks twice a year in April and November. Rain (or lack thereof) will not only impact your guest experience, it will also impact animal behavior and viewing.
Once the calves that were born early in the year are able to keep up, the migration accelerates its giant circle through the Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. When the herds reach the northern portion of the route, several river crossings will take place - a bucket list item for many safari-goers. The Mara River sees crossings between July to October. The steep banks and deeper, crocodile filled waters make for some of the most dramatic crossings.
Keep in mind - the Migration is far from clockwork. Based on weather patterns, the Migration may move earlier or later from year to year to maximize the grazing locations. Some people wait for days or weeks for a river crossing because you first have to get lucky that the Migration is on the banks of the river, then once again as you wait for the first wildebeest to jump into the dangerous waters. Don’t be disappointed if your dreams of seeing a crossing don't exactly pan out - there's so much other wildlife to see!
Another thing to keep in mind is how much the herds' arrival changes the landscape. Millions of grazers quite literally mow down the grasses, which makes it easier to see the other wildlife. If you're going to miss the migration, this can be an advantage of being late rather than early. That said, we happened to be there early, and the grasses were quite tall, but the wildlife viewing was still amazing.
PLANNING
I recommend planning as far in advance as possible. When we booked 18 months out, some of the lodges we looked at were either completely full or close to full. This is particularly true if you hope to visit in peak season.
I don’t usually use an agent, but this is a prime example of a trip where an agent can be helpful. We were unfamiliar with booking bush flights, wanted to know we were picking quality lodges with expert guides, and wanted the reassurance of a support team in the event that something went wrong. For most people, this is truly a once-in-a-lifetime trip, and having those extra layers of comfort can be quite worth it.
LOGISTICS PLANNER
WHAT TO BOOK
WHAT PESKY DETAILS SHOULD YOU TACKLE BEFORE YOU ARRIVE?
AIRPORT
NBO | NAIROBI
Then connect to local airstrip
TRAVEL TIME
14-16 HOURS
FROM NYC >> NBO
Excl. layover + bush flights
WALKABILITY
NOT WALKABLE
CAR NEEDS
NOT RECOMMENDED / POSSIBLE
GETTING THERE
It’s certainly not quick to get to Kenya - either one very long-haul flight or multiple (still long-haul) flights will be needed from the US. Nairobi (NBO) is the major jumping-off point for safari destinations. Major connection cities to NBO include:
-
Dar es Salaam - 1h 25m
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Addis Ababa - 2h 10m
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Seychelles - 3h 10m
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Livingstone / Victoria Falls - 3h 15m
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Antananarivo - 3h 20m
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Johannesburg - 4h 5m
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Cairo - 4h 45m
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Doha - 5h 35m
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Dubai - 5h
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Cape Town - 5h 45m
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Mumbai - 6h
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Istanbul - 6h 30m
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New Delhi - 7h 15m
-
Amsterdam - 8h 30m
-
Paris - 8h 30m
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London - 8h 40m
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Frankfurt - 9h
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New York (JFK) - 14h 20m
Once you arrive at NBO, you will need to take a bush flight to airstrips in the Mara. These flights can be a private charter or a public charter, which will make multiple quick stops along the way much like a carpool. This can add another couple hours to the total travel time, and bush flights don't run on a schedule that's nearly as concrete as commercial flights.
Two of the companies we used for bush flights were Coastal Aviation and SafariLink. Make sure to double-check with your lodge and / or travel agent for which airstrip to fly into or for other charter recommendations.
GETTING AROUND
IN THE BUSH
You have to take the bush flights to get to camp - there is simply no way to feasibly drive to the camps. Even if you wanted to try, it would take much, much longer than flying and navigating is best left to the locals. Once your bush plane arrives, someone from the lodge will be there to meet you and drive you to camp - on the way you'll probably get a mini game drive!
IN THE CITY
Again, leave the driving to the locals. The cities have better roads and signage than the bush, but would still be difficult to navigate as a tourist. We either leveraged our hotel's driver or arranged a car service to get from point A to point B.
LANDING GEAR
WHAT TO KNOW
WHAT CAN YOU DO TO HIT THE GROUND RUNNING & AVOID AN UNNECESSARY HICCUP?
LOCAL CURRENCY
KENYAN SHILLING
SAFETY
LOW RISK
PHONE
Country code: (254)
US Embassy:
+(254) (20) 363-6451
NEED FOR LOCAL CASH
CASH NECESSARY
But USD widely accepted
LOCAL CUSTOMS
SOME CONSIDERATIONS
TIME ZONE
EAT | UTC +3
7h ahead of ET (NYC) in summer (8 in winter)
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE
SWAHILI & ENGLISH (OFFICIAL)
MANY TRIBAL LANGUAGES
VISAS & MORE
ADVANCED PREPARATION REQUIRED
PLUG TYPE
TYPE G
ENGLISH PREVALANCE
COMMONLY SPOKEN
MEDICAL PREP
REQUIRED
See below for COVID
ELECTRICITY
240V / 50 Hz
US uses 110V / 60 Hz
SPENDING
CASH NEEDS
While not the official currency, USD was widely accepted and sometimes even listed as the price. ATMs are not available at all once you leave the city, and having cash on hand is important. We were warned to have a good amount in case of surprise fees at our border crossing. You will also want to have plenty ready for tips and small purchases.
TIPPING TIPS
Getting the tips right for our trip was something we really struggled with. Everyone, and I truly mean everyone, bent over backward to make our stay beyond excellent, and we wanted to make sure to reward them and show our appreciation.
That said, the economy in Kenya is very different than in the US. For reference, the average Kenyan income is about ~10% of that in the US (when looking at the median Kenyan income is ~30% of the US). It felt very difficult to get a feel for what was "typical" or "expected," and a percentage-based tip didn't make sense given the all-inclusive structure of our camps.
We certainly did not want to undertip, but we had also been cautioned about overtipping. We didn't want to be insulting with a tip that could come off as patronizing, and we had also been told about how overtipping can discourage people from going through the process of becoming park rangers.
We talked extensively with our travel agent and did our homework (check out this expert advice on tipping in Kenya), and this was how we handled our tips:
-
We tipped once per lodge, as we were leaving and saying goodbyes
-
We had both a dedicated guide and server at all of our camps, so we tipped them specifically. Then we also gave a pooled tip that was for all of the other staff who helped make our experience so great.
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Our lodges had envelopes available, so we prepared 3 envelopes with cash (we used USD) and a thank you note in our tent before we said our goodbyes.
General tip amounts:
-
For our guides: $30-40 per day (for two of us on two daily drives in a private vehicle)
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For our server: $20-30 per day (for two of us with two to three daily meals)
-
For the rest of the staff: $10-15 per day per guest
SPEAKING
The official languages of Kenya are Swahili and English. Swahili is more predominant, but as an English speaker, it is incredibly easy to converse. Almost everyone we encountered spoke excellent English.
Of course, it's always fun and can be a sign of respect to try a few local phrases - our hosts were more than happy to teach us some basics! In addition to Swahili, you might also try your hand at learning a phrase or two from one of the 68 other languages spoken in Kenya!
SAFETY
Officially, the State Dept. has given Kenya a level 2 travel advisory (out of 4), which advises to exercise increased caution. This status is given due to crime, civil unrest, kidnapping, and a risk of terrorism. Note: Kenya has some regions with higher advisories, including level 3 (Reconsider Travel) as well as level 4 (Do Not Travel). Most of these areas are border regions near Somalia or Ethiopia and are unlikely to be visited by tourists. See the bullets below for more info, and read the full travel advisory from the U.S. State Dept. here: Kenya Travel Advisory
Level 4 (Do Not Travel) Areas:
-
The northeastern Kenyan counties of Mandera, Wajir, Garissa, and the northeastern area of Marsabit (including the cities of El Wak, Wajir, Garissa, Mandera, Moyale, and Liboi). These areas near the Somali & Ethiopian borders pose kidnapping & terrorism risks.
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All parts of the coastal counties of Tana River and Lamu, and all areas of Kilifi County north of Malindi due to kidnapping and terrorism risks.
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The road between Kainuk and Lodwar in Turkana County due to banditry.
Level 3 (Reconsider Travel) Areas:
-
The Nairobi neighborhoods of Eastleigh and Kibera due to potential for violent street crime.
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Certain areas of Laikipia County including Nyahururu, Laikipia West, and Laikipia North Sub-counties due to criminal incursions and security operations.
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Avoid using the Likoni ferry (in Mombasa) due to safety and security concerns.
All that said, staying at a safari lodge feels incredibly low-risk. It's just the guests and the hotel staff isolated in the bush, so there really aren't any people around to cause any problems. There are of course animals, including predators and the unsuspecting but dangerous hippo, which present some risk, but the risk is very minimal as long as you follow the lodge rules. After dark, you'll be escorted by a staff member between your tent and the communal tent just in case of a surprise animal encounter.
LOCAL CUSTOMS
Overall, Kenya felt rather familiar as a US Traveler. That said, Kenya has a few cultural norms to keep in mind when traveling:
-
Do your homework before traveling as a member of the LGBTQ+ community. Same-sex relationships are illegal in Kenya. While tourists don't typically feel the impact of these laws directly, they are still a factor to consider when planning travel to the country.
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Keep PDA and revealing clothing to a minimum. This is less of a concern on safari where essentially everyone there is a tourist, but some regions of the country are predominantly Muslim and cultural norms follow. This also applies if visiting any place of worship in Kenya.
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Ask before you photograph anyone in Kenya. They will likely say yes, but not only is it a sign of respect to ask, some locals hold beliefs about camera flashes, and it would be damaging to them to use a flash without their permission.
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Culturally, make sure to greet others with your right hand, as the left hand is typically reserved for "unclean" purposes. Also, avoid pointing as it can be interpreted as an obscene gesture.
VISAS & MORE
Yes, a visa is needed for entry. You can either apply for a Kenyan eVisa or an East African eVisa, which also applies to Rwanda and Uganda. For the East African option, you can travel between the three countries, but your visit must start in Kenya, and you cannot travel outside of these countries. Either visa is valid for 90 days. Visit this site to start the process: Kenya eVisa. I also like Sherpa, which has a handy travel advisory map, to know what visa & health requirements exist for everywhere you are going in Africa.
Make sure you have a valid passport that has at least 6 months left before its expiration date and 2 blank pages.
In addition, we had another interesting request in nearby Kenya. We were asked to show proof of our planned return to the US. This went a step beyond the requirements for proof of onward travel that I had encountered before, where I would just expect to show our plans to exit Kenya. Another passenger couldn't produce this and he was escorted away by a guard. Interestingly enough, I never could find anything that officially stated this was required (even actively looking for it after the fact).
MEDICAL PREP
Yes, you will need to prep with your doctor before going to Kenya.
Start by checking online at the US Embassy. I also like Sherpa, which has a handy travel advisory map, to know what visa & health requirements exist for everywhere you are going in Africa. Then schedule an appointment with your doctor. You may want to consider a travel health specialist since not all practices are versed in the latest requirements and carry all the relevant vaccines.
Most likely you'll need a yellow fever vaccine, which is good for life, and your doctor will prescribe malaria pills and potentially some emergency antibiotics for travel diarrhea. Some other vaccines may be recommended but depend on the nature of your visit. If you're working in healthcare or will be in close contact with animals, it will be recommended you receive more vaccines.
Regarding COVID, the requirements are constantly changing, be sure to check all official government requirements. Again, Sherpa is a helpful place to start, but I would triple-check against both Tanzania's official site and the US Embassy. Since traveling post-COVID, I've experienced a case or two where even official sources have had conflicting info as requirements evolved. Better to be safe than sorry!
PHONE
Country code: (+254)
U.S. Embassy: +(254) (20) 363-6451
U.S. Embassy Emergency Line: +(255) (20) 363-6170
ELECTRICITY
Type G (240V / 50Hz)
For reference:
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US uses 110V / 60Hz and plug types A (2-prong) and B (3-prong)
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UK uses 230V / 50Hz and plug type G
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Most of continental Europe uses 230V / 50Hz and plug types C, E, & F
Note: Nearby Tanzania uses 230V / 50Hz - you may still need a converter
If your device is not dual-voltage (usually phones & laptops are - but hair tools are problematic), make sure to use a converter / transformer, NOT just an adapter. AND make sure your converter has a high enough power rating for your device. An adapter just makes the plug fit in the wall, but doesn't change the voltage.
SUITCASE PACKER
WHAT TO BRING
Packing for a safari is one of the most unique trips to pack for, which makes it harder to know exactly what you do and don't need. You're also faced with luggage restrictions from your bush flights, further complicating matters. To make things easier, I've put together an extensive guide that lays out every item I packed in my bag for our trip and gear recommendations. Click the box below to view the full packing guide or simply scroll down to see some of the highlights!
TOP PACKING TIPS
KNOW YOUR BUSH FLIGHT WEIGHT RESTRICTIONS
You'll most likely only be allowed 33 pounds of total luggage. This will mean that you have to pack strategically, not bringing more than you need, and optimally bringing items that can mix and match. This is not much, but the good news is that most lodges offer laundry so you can re-wear things!
PACK IN A SOFT-SIDED DUFFLE BAG
This is another requirement of the flights. Your bag will be packed along with others in the cargo hold and may need to be "squished" somewhat so that everything fits easily. You can also bring a very small (lap-sized) personal item in the cabin, which is ideal if you have anything fragile (e.g., your camera).
PACK NEUTRAL, EARTH-TONED COLORS
Not only does this really help with mixing and matching, but it also is important on game drives. Neutral colors blend into the environment, making you less obvious to animals. Though technically neutral, note white isn't the best option - it's "brighter" than you might realize and will quickly get dirty with dust. Additionally, navy and black can attract bugs including tsetse flies.
WEAR LAYERS, LONG SLEEVES, AND LONG PANTS
I think there can be a misconception that Africa is always overwhelmingly hot, but that's not the case. It can be rather cold in the mornings and then continuously heat up throughout the day. Some lodges provide blankets and warm water bottles, but layers really help you adjust! Lightweight, long clothes also help protect you from the sun and bugs without getting too hot!
DON'T FORGET
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CAMERA | Even as an amateur, you'll want to be armed with the right camera gear, and your phone camera isn't going to cut it. I strongly recommend bringing a DSLR. Which lens to bring is a whole other conversation that I cover more deeply in the SAFARI PHOTOGRAPHY GUIDE, but the quick and dirty answer is to bring a lens with a versatile zoom that reaches at least 300mm.
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HARD COPIES OF DOCUMENTS | To guarantee you don't have any tech issues accessing important files quickly, I recommend packing hard copies of visas, health records, and itineraries.
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MEDICATIONS | Lodges are remote, and most have some basics on hand, but they won't have everything. Be sure to bring all prescriptions, and pack some "emergency" basics like band-aids, stomach meds, etc.
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BOOTS | Find a great pair and you really won't need any other shoes. (Exception if your lodge has a pool and you want to pack some sandals.) Boots' soles provide some protection when walking around, and ankle coverage can help with bug bites.
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CONVERTER | Some lodges have USB plugs (which are naturally safe for your international devices), and some loan converters, but it's still good to have your own!
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LIGHT SCARF | A scarf can help with layering to accommodate temperature changes. It can also help mitigate the dust - use it to protect your face or your camera as needed.
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OTHER SUGGESTIONS | A safari hat for the sun, lightweight gloves for chilly mornings, a GoPro for videos, a jacket, bug wipes, memory cards, and chargers for cameras & phones.
LEAVE BEHIND
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HEAVY ITEMS | Squeeze the most out of your 33lb limit by leaving heavy items at home. Check to see if your lodge has items on offer - you might be able to leave guidebooks, binoculars, or even DSLRs behind! Bring a kindle instead of paper books. Leave behind the extra shoes or large liquids. Wear your heaviest clothes (jacket and boots) on the plane.
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ELECTRONICS | Not only are laptops and tablets heavy, they really aren't needed. You'll have plenty of other things to occupy your time, so you won't even miss them. Some lodges reinforce disconnecting by only offering wi-fi in your room (and not in shared spaces), and it might not be the most speedy or reliable.
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FANCY CLOTHES | Even if you are staying at an ultra-luxury lodge, you still won't really dress up. When returning late after a particularly great drive, you might even go straight from the game vehicle to cocktails and then dinner - boots and all!
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"HIGH-MAINTENANCE" CLOTHES | If it can't be refreshed easily with a machine wash or folded up in your duffle, it probably doesn't belong in your bag. Opt for packable, performance fabrics that are both low-maintenance and comfortable instead of worrying about delicate fabrics and wrinkles.
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PROHIBITED OR OTHERWISE QUESTIONABLE ITEMS | Pack neutrals, but do not pack camo, which is reserved for the military and may cause unnecessary attention if not legal action in some places. Also, note that plastic bags (beyond your TSA toiletries bag) are not allowed in Tanzania. Finally, while drones are legal, documentation to fly them for any purpose is required, and I would be reluctant to travel with a drone without proper paperwork out of an abundance of precaution.
WHAT'S IN MY BAG
All photos in "What's in my Bag" Gallery: PTO Travel Pro*
REQUIRED READING
REFERENCES & RECOMMENDATIONS
IN PRINT
FACT
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Safari Comanion by Richard D. Estes
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The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals by Jonathan Kingdon
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Field Guide to the Birds of East Africa by Terry Stevenson
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Wildlife Photography: On Safari with your DSLR by Uwe Skrzypczak
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Various memoirs of game drive guides
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Coffee table books for photo inspiration
FICTION
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Green Hills of Africa by Ernest Hemingway
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West with the Night by Beryl Markham
ON SCREEN
FACT
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The Way of the Cheetah (2022)
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The Jade Eyed Leopard (2020)
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Man Among Cheetahs (2017)
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Big Cat Diary (1996 - )
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BBC Earth Dynasties (2018)
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Trophy (2017)
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Big Cat Games (2015)
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The Hunt (2015)
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BBC Earth Africa (2012)
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Disneynature African Cats (2011)
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BBC Earth Nature's Great Events (2009)
FICTION
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The Lion King (1994)
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Out of Africa (1985)
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The Ghost and the Darkness (1996)
MORE TO SEE
The Safari Playbook: PTO Travel Pro* | Safari & Seychelles Honeymoon: PTO Travel Pro* | Kenya: PTO Travel Pro* | 50 Honeymoon Ideas: PTO Travel Pro* | Serengeti: PTO Travel Pro* | Mara Plains Tented Camp: PTO Travel Pro* | Best Safari Destinations: Unsplash* | Safari Photography Guide: PTO Travel Pro* | Safari Packing Guide: Unsplash*
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